My first introduction to surfing was reading an inspiring and beautiful book based on the true story, 'The Soul Surfer'. It's about a young surfer who is passionate about becoming a professional surfer. She experienced a life changing event where a shark took her left arm and nearly her life.
Bethany Hamilton's feisty determination and steadfast faith spurred her towards an adventurous comeback that gave her the grit to turn her shark attack experience into a gift for others.
That whole story truly inspired me and straight away I knew I wanted to surf, knowing I was making a great decision!
I then started to do surfing lessons and it was frightening at first, thinking about the danger. I knew nothing about surfing, no one in my family surfed, but I was sure and confident that I was being looked out for.
The moment I stood up on my first miniature wave, I knew why Bethany loved surfing so much and that incredible rush was nothing I had experienced before.
One of my dreams is to become a professional surfer and one day I hope to meet Bethany Hamilton. I want to tell her that her amazing story has inspired me to get into the water and surf. One of her most inspiring phrases can truly impact your perspective on life.
"I've learned that life is a lot like surfing. When you get caught in the impact zone, you need to get right back up because you never know what's over the next wave. And if you have faith, anything is possible, anything at all. "
Love,
Tasa
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